Today I tossed out a pile of elbow lames, because they weren’t quite right. I had spent several hours making these, and they didn’t work properly. The reason that they didn’t work properly is that I had too much “rake” and had put too much curve in them, so that they wouldn’t clear properly.
Half an hour with card stock (really heavy weight paper, about 2/10ths of a mm thick) and I had a new pattern, and a couple of hours later I had the elbows articulating nicely – based on dead flat articulations. I found it useful to articulate these “flat” and then put a (very slight) curve into them once I had them articulating. Here are pictures of the re-patterning, as well as the depth of curvature on the elbow lames.
This led me to question whether I was properly shaping my couters – pics below
I also found that the reshaping eliminated the creases I had put into the lames, and when I re-peaked them I found that I was a couple of millimeters off true for a couple of them. In future I plan to articulate, and THEN put in the medial crease, and I wonder how many armourers articluate after creasing, and how many put in the crease after articulating.
I’ve been cleaning up my heat treated and tempered knees, and thought that it would be useful to make a few notes to remember if you are doing this (or if I’m doing this after a long hiatus, which has been known to happen)
A bunch of this is obvious in retrospect, but my attempt to planish out some surface irregularities on tempered carbon steel was a hilarious (but not at the time) failure. Since I didn’t know how much “depth” I would be losing to firescale I figured that I should do all of my surface updates AFTER heat treating. Oops. This clean-up has taken a whole lot of time, hopefully the rough (150 grit) pass on the other knee will be considerably faster.
So things to remember
Do all of the rough grinding / clean up of surface irregularities before heat treating because:
- Planishing doesn’t work on hardened steel
- abrasives are much less effective on tempered steel
- If I have to clean up any surface irregularities, start with 120 grit instead of 150 grit
- Do all edge bevels before heat treating (when it’s still easy)
More pictures when this gets finished…
It’s been a while, and a lot has changed in the last year or so. We have moved to Calgary, I’ve started to set up the shop again, and visited the Glenbow museum a couple of times and looked at some nice (and not-so nice) armour.
Hopefully I’ll have time to get some updates up in the next few months, likely starting with 15th century gauntlet construction.